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Bespoke Shirts

Our latest range of shirt fabrics has just arrived into our shop for our Bespoke shirt range.

  • from 100% cotton to pure linen to mix blends we have shirts fabric options for any occasion.
  • collar and cuffs style choice tend to be the most important decision to be made here. We have a range of collar and cuff samples on display, you can choose either one of these or tweak either style to suit your needs. The three main collar styles are normal, half-cutaway or cutaway and our most popular cuff choices are generally double(French) cuff or single cuffs
  • We offer body cut choices, slim, tapered, normal or loose. So getting the perfect fit you’re after is simple.
  • We also off personal embroidery, so you can have your initials sewn into the cuffs or shirt body.
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Travel Cloth – my choice for a business travel suit

We have a few cloth bunches dedicated to travel use. My top pick for a travel cloth is Fresco III by Hardy Minnis England.

The latest collection of this Iconic bunch continues to offer the original Fresco fabrics as patented in 1907. The bunch has now been extended to introduce Fresco Lite, which will sit alongside all of the traditional variations. Fresco Lite is available in 36 plain colours. This 9oz cloth has a lightweight smooth handle while retaining all the performance and wrinkle resistance of the original Fresco cloths. Now more than ever the Fresco collection is “The ultimate Travel Suit”.

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The correct lengths for sleeve and legs

The debate of the perfect jacket sleeve length will go on forever but in my option it is personal taste. For myself I like to go with a shorter sleeve length so I show more shirt cuff but this is not for everyone. The most common amount of shirt cuff to be shown is approx. ½ inch. So we aim the jacket sleeve to finish at the wrist and the shirt cuff the sit just below that leaving 1/2-inch of the shirt cuff visible.

The trouser leg length is also personal taste. The classic and most common length we do is for the back of the trouser legs to sit straight to the heel and the front of the legs to have a slight break. With the narrow cut trouser legs, which are very popular these days, the trouser bottoms will sit higher up on the shoe which means the trouser legs need to be cut shorter to reduce the break at the bottom.

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Cloth of the month

Our most popular seller last month was:-

Cambridge VII by Huddersfield fine worsted Light weight super 110s.

Made in Italy by one of Biella’s most iconic mills. This bunch has been very popular due to its impressive selection of patterns and solids in elegant and traditional styling.

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Warm up for Winter

If you find you feel the cold quite easily or want an alternative to your summer suits, take advantage of our winter options.

“Winter Classics” by HFW is a great fabric bunch for winter; including light to heavy weighted flannels this bunch has selections of checks, stripes and plains.

Overcoats: we have a huge selection of overcoat fabrics. Wool and cashmere blends, to pure Khan Cashmere by Holland & Sherry.

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Is this the perfect tuxedo?

Late last year SVM, one of my good clients, commissioned a tuxedo. He knew that this tux was to last some time and wanted to get it just right.

He was in need of a dinner suit for an upcoming event, he thought “if I’m going to splash out for a new tux then he wanted something special.”

Through a lot of his own research and some more through myself we came up with a list that the tuxedo needed to have to be precisely 1930’s ‘gold standard’(the era when it is generally accepted that ‘Black Tie’ came to stand alone and apart from other forms of formal dress)

The cloth was selected from Dugdale Bros Formal wear bunch, a medium weighted black cloth, perfect for a tux.

The style was single breasted, one-button with 3 3/4” peaked lapel and no vents (very traditional for tuxedos). The trouser was flat fronted with buckle side adjuster waistband and brace buttons. And the waistcoat a low 4 buttoned horseshoe cut (U-shaped) with shawl lapels and jet pockets.

We used pure silk Grosgrain for the lapel, buttons and jet pocket coverings, also grosgrain braid down trouser legs – silk grosgrain is a ribbed textured facing, an alternative to the standard satin lapels.

The traditional (tie your own) bow tie was styled using the same pure silk grosgrain as the lapels.

We also made a bespoke tuxedo shirt to go with it. With traditional Marcella bib front, collar and cuffs with 4 stud holes to fit 1920s black mother of pearl Krementz shirts studs and cufflinks.

SVM also accessorised with a 1920s Double Albert gold chain & 1909 Elgin pocket watch.

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Bunch No.: 805 Dormeuil Naturals

Dormeuil sources some of the best natural fibres on the planet, respect and care must be given to these fibres  during the washing, weaving and finishing. Naturals represents the ideal fabric collection for the warmer summer months, with the new range featuring luxurious linen, wool and silk mixtures.

Designs are available in very bright plain colours and also come in more fancy semi-plains, ideal for summer’s casual silhouettes. At the same time, an innovative new cloth in pure cotton stretch has also been developed and introduced, for easy summer wearing with superb handle and drape.

Product:

  • Innovative designs.
  • Colourful and fresh.
  • Modern and casual look in cotton, linen, wool and silk blends.
  • Weight: 230 g to 280 g / 8 oz to 9.5 oz.
  • Made in England & Italy.
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Bunch No: 803 Dormeuil Exel

The innovative spirit of the House of Dormeuil led to the collection Exel to be created in the summer of 2016, following its success the next iteration is released taking comfort and luxury to a new level. A fabric produced from pure wool, Exel is the result of unique weaving and finishing techniques that harnessing the modern world ingenuity with the natural elasticity of wool.

It moves easily, producing an extraordinary level of comfort, with an impeccable silhouette and lasting drape. The fabric is specifically created for a discerning clientele who will appreciate its refined colours, handle and natural elasticity. The blue spectrum reflects the sky, the sea and the marine environment, while summer pastels draw on the pinks, greys and beige which are becoming the acme of contemporary elegance.

Watch the Video: Introducing Dormeuil Exel

Product:

  • Innovative weaving and finishing technique that gives a natural stretch of 15%.
  • Ultimate comfort: the cloth regains its initial shape after stretching.
  • Allows a modern close fitting cut that also allows great movement.
  • Weight: 240 g / 8.5 oz & 270 g / 9.5 oz.
  • Made in Italy.
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Choosing your cloth

Choosing the cloth for your suit can at times be challenging. I have looked through fabrics with customers for hours and some for only minutes. Everyone has their own method to choosing their suit cloth, but if you follow my process the choice should be smooth.

Weight: Initially we need to work out what the suit will be used for. A winter business suit? or perhaps a summer wedding suit? This will determine whether you go or a medium or lightweight cloth. If the suit is for business wear and you want durability opt for something in a medium weight. If you feel the heat quite easily (understandably in Sydney) then always go for a lightweight cloth and consider and extra trouser to extend the suits life. A summer wedding screams lightweight. Cloth with a composition of linen, silk and wool can be the perfect choice.

 Colour and shade: usually you will have a good idea on which colour direction you want go with. You may have had a blue suit last time and want to mix it up with a grey this time round or you might only like to wear blue. From here its best to get a few shades of your chosen colour out and match it up with skin tone or the occasion for the suit.

Textures and patterns: do you want something bold? A bold check perhaps or a subtle check… something plain or something with a small texture running through the cloth. The safest option for a business suit is to stick with subtle textures or checks, these are perfectly fine for the business environment. Mix it up from what you chose last time round. Its good to have the wardrobe full of a mix of different options.

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The outside ticket pocket

When I mention this pocket at a first fitting, or when clients have seen these small pockets on other suits, the most common response is “what is it for?”.

Well , these days the ticket pocket is more for looks and style but historically it was used by men who rode on horse back (before cars), for quick and easy accessibility to coins at toll booths etc.

Traditionally, it was also used by businessmen commuting on the train to the city where he would be able to easily store his train ticket.

Today, the ticket pocket is used mainly for aesthetic purposes. It can be added to straight flap pockets or slanted flap pockets.

We also have an option for jetted ticket pockets (without the flap). The outside ticket pocket is very popular as a bespoke addition to business suits but equally can create a distinct edge to sports jackets.

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Christmas Gift Vouchers

if you are unsure of what to buy for a colleague or family member this Christmas then why not consider our popular Z&S gift voucher.

Each voucher uniquely has the option to be made out to a specific amount of money or a specific garment.

Our vouchers will certainly work within every budget. You can apply the voucher towards suits, sports jackets, shirts, trousers, ties, socks, trouser braces, and everything in-between.

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