Late last year SVM, one of my good clients, commissioned a tuxedo. He knew that this tux was to last some time and wanted to get it just right.
He was in need of a dinner suit for an upcoming event, he thought “if I’m going to splash out for a new tux then he wanted something special.”
Through a lot of his own research and some more through myself we came up with a list that the tuxedo needed to have to be precisely 1930’s ‘gold standard’(the era when it is generally accepted that ‘Black Tie’ came to stand alone and apart from other forms of formal dress)
The cloth was selected from Dugdale Bros Formal wear bunch, a medium weighted black cloth, perfect for a tux.
The style was single breasted, one-button with 3 3/4” peaked lapel and no vents (very traditional for tuxedos). The trouser was flat fronted with buckle side adjuster waistband and brace buttons. And the waistcoat a low 4 buttoned horseshoe cut (U-shaped) with shawl lapels and jet pockets.
We used pure silk Grosgrain for the lapel, buttons and jet pocket coverings, also grosgrain braid down trouser legs – silk grosgrain is a ribbed textured facing, an alternative to the standard satin lapels.
The traditional (tie your own) bow tie was styled using the same pure silk grosgrain as the lapels.
We also made a bespoke tuxedo shirt to go with it. With traditional Marcella bib front, collar and cuffs with 4 stud holes to fit 1920s black mother of pearl Krementz shirts studs and cufflinks.
SVM also accessorised with a 1920s Double Albert gold chain & 1909 Elgin pocket watch.