Bring out the tweed
How and why you should made this classic a wardrobe staple.
If tweed brings up images of pipe smoking, royals hunting in British forests and warm ale drinking, well...they would be accurate, but that’s not the whole story. Tweed is just as much a modern city man’s ultimate cloth as it is a countryside favourite. Practical, hard wearing, easily fitting formal and casual occasions, tweed is the pinnacle of winter and classic style.
Its strong association with country pursuits and English upper class may not be helpful, but don’t let it put you off from enjoying this exquisite fabric. Tweed is the original performance fabric and has a lot of gifts to offer to the modern city gentleman.
In the beginning…
In fact, tweed’s original job was to keep folk on the west coast of Scotland warm in fairly rough weather. But what started as the fabric for poor farmers became the sportswear of choice for the gentry who couldn’t resist its qualities.
What is tweed?
Tweed is a hardwearing, coarse woollen fabric with water-resistant qualities. Like the peacoat, it’s warm, so there is a good reason it is universally loved in the countryside.
The wool goes through several processes before becoming tweed. It starts with a big dye bath, then it’s dried, first by spinning, and then by heat. This removes any moisture, so it is ready to be dyed, spun and woven. The texture and quality of the finished tweed depends on the amount of yarn, the thickness and the woven method. Some tweeds are handwoven (Donegal tweed is famously handwoven) and some are machine woven. Its weather-resistant properties are largely due to the hairy, springy texture, which means that water is more likely to stay on the surface rather than soaking in.
There are different types of tweed, these days light woven tweed, more suitable for warmer climates or seasons.
Harris tweed - handwoven by residents of the Outer Hebrides islands, this tweed is made strictly from virgin wool that’s been meticulously harvested and dyed.
Donegal tweed - handwoven for centuries by Donegal County, Ireland, residents, this tweed uses wool from local sheep and is dyed using local plants like blackberries, gorse, moss and fuchsia.
Silk tweed - uses raw silk with specks of color, is less common and also one of the most expensive.
Why choose a tweed suit?
Why go for a tweed suit instead of a cotton, linen or wool suit? First of all, there's warmth and protection from the elements - tweed scores much better than any other natural fabrics. It’s also not as thick and heavy as wool can sometimes be, so you’ll still move lightly when decked in it.
And like all bespoke suits, a tweed suit is all about high quality and durability. It is a lot less likely to rip and tear compared to other fabrics. And of course, the bespoke construction itself extends the life of the suit.
For a truly vintage look, go right ahead and wear your tweed paired it with a tattersall shirt and woolen tie, and even a pair of cord trousers. Or keep it contemporary with a pair of jeans or chinos.
Is tweed still fashionable?
Yes, we went there. Because let’s be honest, it was on your mind.
Well, just ask David Gandy, the world supermodel who advocates for it and wears it at every opportunity.
And yes, royals wear it (even the young ones), women wear it, stylish gentlemen wear it. Fashionable seems too weak, too mundane a descriptor for it though - tweed is a timeless, classic cloth that defies fashion and trends.
How to look after your tweed
Another reason you’d want to consider tweed is how easy it is to care for. Just remember to:
Image of tweed we use for Zink & Sons suits
Brush it with a stiff brush every so often
Use a damp sponge and circular motions to remove stains
Do an annual dry clean and you’re set.
